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I’m not entirely new to spirits made in the state of Colorado. You’ve probably read my reviews for brands like Mile High Spirits, Distillery 291, Laws Whiskey House and Deerhammer Distillery. Recently, my good friend, Mike has introduced me to one I’ve never heard of before: Boulder Spirits. Based out of Boulder Colorado, this distiller has been making their own spirits since 2015.
They’re not a particularly large producer due to the constraints of their 1500 gallon Forsythe pot still (I’ve also read it’s a 1000 gallon pot still), but they have managed to sock away a decent amount of barrels for the long haul rather than bottling them up when they’re too young. All of that patience has paid off as they’ve held enough back to increase the age statements with each passing year.
What is it with Colorado and Malt?
Would it surprise you to find out that Vapor Distillery (the makers of Boulder Spirits) produces a single malt whiskey for their whiskey portfolio? I’m asking because I find it amusing that basically every distillery in Colorado produces one. I’m also mentioning it because their bourbon also uses a huge amount in the mash – 44% to be exact.
With so much malted barley, it only allows for the bare minimum of corn to be used (51%) and just a tiny amount of rye (5%). I might be overlooking other producers, but I don’t think anyone else is using percentages like this for their bourbon.
What’s up with all of that malted barley?
Most bourbon producers build their mash bills with rye or wheat as their flavoring grain. Malted barley is typically an afterthought. It’s added in mainly for the enzymes to help break down sugars for the yeast to digest during fermentation. In short, bourbon drinkers have never really had much experience with malted barley because it’s only been used as a tool for fermentation rather than an ingredient to add more flavor.
Scotch and Irish Whisky producers focus almost entirely on this grain, but I know American whiskey drinkers that refuse to go out of their comfort zone to taste whiskies from those regions. If they would, they’d find a grain that is naturally sweet and complex and – in my own opinion – offers far more flavor variety than corn. I was at an event recently where we were drinking bourbon from MGP that was made with a mash bill of 99% corn and 1% malted barley and everything tasted the same. Aside from caramel, vanilla and oak, there wasn’t much else to explore. If it had been made with 99% malted barley and 1% corn, I bet I would have found a whole rainbow of flavors.
The point I’m trying to make is that it would be interesting to see what exactly a bourbon with such a high amount of malted barley would taste like. Thankfully, Vapor Distillery is going to show us with their most recent release of Boulder Spirits Cask Strength Bourbon.
The 2024 version of Boulder Spirits Cask Strength Bourbon
This is the second release of Boulder Spirits Cask Strength Bourbon. The first release in 2023 saw the same barrels being used, but they were a year younger (their website said 6 years old). The 2024 version uses barrels that were – at minimum – 7 years old. This batch was created from just 15 barrels and the total bottle count was slightly under 2,000. So while this isn’t a large release, it’s also not so small that there aren’t enough bottles for the people who want one (at least initially). Spirits retailer Seelbach’s is your best chance to buy a bottle, but it’s sold out currently. Their website still seems to have some in stock.
I’m curious as to what I’ll find inside this bottle, so I’m going to quit talking now and get myself a pour. As usual, I sampled this neat in a glencairn.
Tasting Notes
Nose: The nose on this glass is incredibly sweet and dessert-like. I can hardly take my nose out of it. I find notes of Greek Kataifi with a strong emphasis on the honey along with fruit notes like raisins and figs. Soft notes like nutmeg, vanilla cake batter and butterscotch also swirl around. There’s not much in the way of barrel influence, but honestly this still smells incredibly balanced.
Palate: A very oily mouthfeel (flaxseed oil) is followed by a moderate amount of heat. That’s probably the 128.4 proof points showing you that yes, this is a barrel proof bourbon you’re drinking. Sweet honey and phyllo dough combines for a deliciously sweet dessert experience. Soft spices like nutmeg, cinnamon and a touch of clove combine with jammy fruits (cherry, fig, raisin and mandarin orange). Classic malt whiskey notes like porridge, mead and a very subtle Sherry notes remind me of a little bit of a Ben Nevis Scotch (possibly finished in a 2nd fill Sherry Cask). And is it all in my head or is the small amount of rye giving off a little bit of fennel?
Finish: A finish that remains sweet, fruity and very malty. More honeycomb, cinnamon, spiced cherry jam, orange marmalade and a little more of that sulphury, fortified wine flavor that’s so odd to find in a non-finished whiskey. Nilla wafers combine with oak and a hint of barrel char towards the end. The thick, oily nature of the liquid is still quite recognizable for a long time after the sip is complete. It’s a mouth-coating experience from start to finish.
Score: 8.2/10
This bottle is more than just appealing to a bourbon lover, it would be appealing to a malt whiskey lover as well. I would have figured that the corn would be the dominant grain; but it ended up being the malted barley – and it’s better for it. The sweetness I find in each sip is off the charts, but not in a cloying way. It took me a while to pinpoint the sweet dessert that was coming to mind throughout my session, but I think I hit the nail on the head when I landed on “Greek Kataifi.”
The whole experience was so balanced and flavorful that I walked away extremely impressed. I would not have ever tried this bottle if it wasn’t for my friend Mike (who was also encouraged by another friend), but I’m glad I did. I have read a few reviews on it since then, but only after I got to experience this. That’s how it is sometimes with these small distillers and their small releases – there is just too many to be able to explore them all. Many times it’s a gamble to buy a random bottle you know nothing about. But this one demonstrates that it’s okay to gamble every now and then.
Final Thoughts
Chalk this bottle up to one of the most surprising releases I’ve had this year. I was not expecting a small producer from Colorado to wow me like this. It’s got something for everyone. Sweetness in droves, lots of various fruits and enough proof, spice and body to keep even the biggest ABV lovers satisfied.
I can see myself buying more Boulder Spirits products now that I’ve had a taste of what they’re like. If you’re like me and don’t give the little guys enough chances or stay away from odd mash bills, this is a bottle that will open your world up to a life outside of the big heritage distilleries. Who knew all it would take was an obscene amount of malted barley?
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